“My first solo bicycle trip on the Loire by Bike”
07 December 2020
By Constance Grangier, Travel Advisor in Abicyclette Voyages
Last October, I rode solo for the first time. I have two full weeks off but no one around me is available this time of year. I ask myself a question: not go or go alone? The thought of being by myself scares me. But I can’t see myself staying home for 15 days after the year we’ve been through. How about a little bike trip in France? Something accessible starting from Rennes and which does not require a lot of organization (because I make the decission a week before my departure).
The choice of the destination
After having often heard Sébastien and Aurélie talk about their beautiful region, it immediately comes to mind: I’m going to the Loire Valley! I check the weather forecast: the weather will be alright, not too much rain. I called Sébastien to let him know that I wanted to visit his region and off I go: I book my carpooling, my train, my accommodation and he helps me plan my routes.
For these holidays, I’m looking for adventure, enjoying the great outdoors, but above all to feel safe for my first solo experience. I’ve often heard that traveling alone (being a woman) is dangerous… What if all of that doesn’t mean anything? I want to prove that nothing can happen to me and that the more one fears danger, the more likely it is to happen.
Here I go!
Day 1: Loop starting from Tours and the discovery of Blois
On my first day, a loop starting from Tours takes me to Villandry. By myself on my bike, I find myself humming, smiling. I meet some cyclists, we greet each other, they are always smiling and friendly. I quickly arrive in Villandry. I find a small bakery where I decide to get supplies. I finally spend 15 minutes chatting with the baker. She advises me on certain visits and some top spots. I quickly realize that people approach me more easily because I’m by myself and they are always kind. After my lunch, I get on my bike again and reach Tours to take a train that will take me to Blois. It’s still early, so I’m off to explore the city and its castle. Being by myself allows me to visit at my own pace: I stop when it suits me, I spend more time in one room than another. I wander around, lose myself in the alleys, go where I wish and what a joy! I end this day with the magnificent Son & Lumières (Sound & Light) on the four facades of the castle. A magnificent spectacle that romances the history of this extraordinary monument.
Day 2: Chambord and Cheverny loop
For this second day, 65km and 2 castles await me. At breakfast I chat with my neighbors at the table. They dream of going on a bicycle trip. We spend almost an hour talking about their project and my trip. At 9:00 am, I hop on the saddle and start my ride for the day. Around 10:30 am I arrive at the Château de Chambord, I quickly fall in love with the architecture. One last tour of the castle by bike, a few photos and off we go. In Bracieux, I stop at the great Vauché chocolate factory to stock up on snacks. The mini rocher praliné are delicious! I then return to the town of this charming village to find a place to eat. I enter the Café du Commerce and I am very well received. The atmosphere is warm and friendly. I chat with the people of the neighboring tables and take full advantage of this moment. As I leave, I am cheered on by a table of regulars, all very curious and visibly surprised to see “a young girl by herself on her bicycle”. I am now riding towards Cheverny where I visit the castle. I have a laugh with the security personnel who even offer to keep my belongings during the visit. A few more kilometers before returning to Blois. The sun is back and when I arrive at the hotel I am smiling from ear to ear!
Day 3: From Blois to Amboise via Chaumont-sur-Loire
On this third day of cycling, the weather is giving me a hard time. Headwinds, gusts, rain, hail… By the eighth kilometer I’m already tired. Arriving at the tenth kilometer, I have already fallen twice. On the twentieth, the sun decides to show up and I feel a bit enthusiastic! I have the opportunity to visit the Chaumont-sur-Loire castle and its fabulous gardens under a bright sun. My motivation is back. But after only 2 or 3 kilometers traveled after my break in Chaumont, the wind and the rain make their appearance again. Added to this is a false flat rising for several kilometers. I arrive in Amboise exhausted but proud to have made it without needing any encouragement. In this kind of situation I think the mind plays a great part. I was able to prove to myself that even in difficult times I was able to do it on my own!
Day 4: Chenonceau loop
For my fourth day, I’m going to explore Chenonceau. I enjoy visiting these historic monuments on my own just as much, at my own pace. I take advantage of the sun to take some beautiful photos. I also take the opportunity to have a coffee in front of this architectural wonder. At lunch, the picnic area is packed. I spot a table with two kids and ask them if I can sit next to them. Right away, we start a conversation… in English because one is German and the other American. We discuss current events but also cycling since they are also out on the Loire by Bike! I return to Amboise quite early. So I decide to go and visit Clos Lucé, the home of Leonardo da Vinci, and take a stroll on the Île d’Or before going to dinner, with my faithful e-reader.
Day 5: From Amboise to Tours
Finally, for this fifth and last day, I have to go back to Tours. The week has gone by too quickly. I make a few stops in the middle of the vines. Hillsides and banks of the Loire enliven my morning. When I arrive in Tours, I drop off my bike and enjoy the city one last time.
What I learned from this solo cycling experience.
What a great week on the Loire by Bike. This allowed me to grasp the advantages of solo travel. The list could be long, but here are the main ones:
- People approach you more easily. People do not hesitate to come and chat with you or include you in their discussions.
- You are warmly welcomed: in hotels, cafes, restaurants, sites and monuments.
- You do as you please, when you please. Without depending on another person. And above all, you do things at our own pace.
- You elicit curiosity and being a woman who travels alone is often seen as something “great” or “classy”. There are many who congratulate you for taking the plunge and frankly, it feels good!
- You challenge yourself, prove yourself that you can do things without someone else’s help and you have fun!
The moral of this story? I can’t wait to go on another adventure … on my own!
Constance Grangier