Catalonia Travel Log: A Gravel Biking Paradise

As the sun reaches its zenith and Figueres slowly comes to life, Christophe and Sébastien, loaded down with their cycling gear, arrive at their starting point. In the hustle and bustle of the Spanish city, they take a moment to prepare for their forthcoming gravel expedition in Catalonia. In a narrow pedestrian alleyway, they settle into a café, where the scent of freshly baked cake greets them warmly. It’s time to take a close look at the itinerary for their first day’s adventure. A 58-kilometer route awaits them, with 924 meters of ascent, taking them from Figueres to Girona.

Guided by the excitement of the unknown and the promise of unforgettable experiences, they mount their bikes, ready to blend into the rolling landscape that surrounds them. Following in the footsteps of their passion for gravel biking and carried away by the sweet breath of adventure, they embark on a five-day journey through the Catalan countryside, in search of discovery and thrills.

Gravel riding through the Catalan countryside to Girona

“The first pedal strokes quickly take us out of town, where we discover a picturesque landscape of rapeseed fields and olive groves stretching as far as the eye can see. Behind us, in the distance, the Pyrenees offer a breathtaking spectacle. We pass numerous farms and agricultural holdings on our way, silent witnesses to the rural life that animates these lands. The Tramontane pushes us along at our backs, urging us on. We’re gliding along at the rhythm of the wind, literally gliding along – it’s a real pleasure.

We regularly pass through small villages, with their imposing churches and slender bell towers. We sometimes stop for a moment to admire the beauty of these places, imbued with tranquillity and charm. Like the village of Saus, with its cobbled streets that give the impression of being on an ancient Roman road. Or the village of Flaçà, where a church and its fortified tower stand side by side, bearing witness to an era of nobility and wealth, and an abandoned industrial wasteland, a vestige of a more recent, but equally bygone, flourishing past.

After a long, easy and comfortable crossing of the plains, we attack the first hills: a steep 7 km climb, with sections reaching 16%, is the test of the day and the most formidable challenge of our tour. At the summit, the Sanctuary of Nostra Senyora dels Àngels rewards us with a breathtaking panoramic view of the surrounding area. After a good break, we start the last leg of our journey: the descent to Girona. A few technical sections on bumpy tracks give us the pleasure of riding on gravel, and other sections of immaculate roads allow us a few bursts of speed.

The arrival in Girona is pleasant. We deserve a good tapas dinner and a good night’s rest!”

Heading for the coast: from Girona to Sant-Feliu-de-Guixols

“The next morning we hung around Girona for a while, enjoying the narrow streets, slaloming between groups of tourists, crossing the wide canals that give it its charm, and taking the opportunity to visit a few bike stores: all the top brands have their stores here. Girona is considered by many to be the cycling capital of Europe.

Leaving Girona offers a pleasant escape, following the greenways that make up a large part of our day’s route. Reserved for bikes or pedestrians, these roads are virtually car-free and mostly gravel, allowing us to savor the pleasure of gravel, hone our riding skills and recover from the previous day’s exertions. The gradient is minimal, enhanced by the crossing of several rivers and numerous bridges that add to the charm of the landscape. Along the way, we come across cork oaks, barked up to a metre and a half high, which must have been used by the neighbouring farms. Still in sight, the majestic Pyrenees rise to the horizon, while fields stretch as far as the eye can see. A well-deserved stop awaits us for a delicious lunch at the “Entre terres” restaurant in the charming town of Llagostera, where a welcoming couple speak French with great kindness.

The start, slightly weighed down by our feast, is nevertheless smooth and easy. The last stretch of the route is a beautiful track: “la Via del train”, an old railroad line. We emerge in the middle of old disused sheds that were once the terminus of trains, now useless for lack of rails. In the sky, seagulls greet us with their distinctive cries, guiding us to the sea that stretches out its arms to us. In the distance, a pretty marina. Tonight, we enjoy the end of the day by the sea in the small town of Sant Feliu.”

From Sant-Feliu to Torroella: a gravel route through coves and olive groves

“Day three begins at the seaside, passing through seaside towns punctuated by tall buildings and invaded by pelotons of cyclists, underlining why this region is described as a cycling Mecca. Then we discover sublime little coves, inviting us to take a break and savour the landscape, the fine sand, the mild springtime, and the splendid weather that has been with us since the start of our journey.

Then our route heads inland, sometimes crossing bumpy roads where braking management, handlebar support, shock absorption and the choice of the best trajectory for our bikes are de rigueur, offering a real pleasure to ride. What’s more, these paths wind through charming and varied little forests. At lunchtime, we have the privilege of tasting the remarkable and delicious Argudell oil, a variety of olive unique to this region, a veritable nugget for foodies.

The last part of our day goes off without a hitch, with the wind at our backs and not a soul in sight. What a joy to navigate through the many junctions and intersections offering an infinite number of gravel routes and itineraries. This diversity already makes us want to come back and explore more.

At the end of the day, we reach Torroella, satisfied after a busy day. The heart of this small town is made up of narrow streets, with a few squares where children play after school while parents sip a drink in the cafés, creating a cheerful, family atmosphere where we feel almost at home. We make a toast to this well-deserved day!”

From the shore to the canals: a picturesque journey from Torroella to Castelló

“The following day, we start our fourth day at daybreak, as the day is forecast to be hot. Our route begins with a pleasant forest crossing, punctuated by short but steep climbs. Afterwards, we skirt the sea again, passing charming fishing villages that invite us to take a dip despite the coolness of the water at this time of year. Then the path takes us back through the countryside, passing through fields of rapeseed and modest-sized farms, along bucolic paths. Finally, we reach an area of marshland carpeted with heather and other low grasses, where birdwatching spots attract the curious and the keen.

It’s a welcome short stop as the heat builds up and our bodies begin to tire a little.

We disembark in the early afternoon in the superb little town of Castillo. It’s a real gem! Its narrow streets are full of charm, and there are plenty of nice restaurants to discover. The buildings are sublime, with their wrought-iron balconies and terracotta floors. On the hilltop there’s a magnificent basilica, and at its edge a breathtaking view of the surrounding area. And our hotel? A veritable cocoon of comfort, with superb rooms and the icing on the cake, a swimming pool at the foot of a former convent. It’s like being immersed in a fairytale.”

From Castillo to Figueres, a final journey of sunshine and steep paths

“Everything comes to an end. Here we are, on the last day of our journey. So short and yet so far. The azure skies that have accompanied us since yesterday seem to be holding us back in the charming town of Castillo, but our legs are now in rhythm and we’re swallowing up the kilometers effortlessly.

Arriving in Roses, we take different paths: one opts for the shorter route, while the other chooses the slightly longer version through the Cap de Creus nature park. We meet up again a little further on. For those who still have some energy left, the longer option is well worth it. The landscape is almost reminiscent of Corsica, with its mountainous terrain and nearby sea.

This final day has its share of surprises: one of us is starting to show signs of fatigue in the saddle, and we have to deal with two punctures on the last kilometer. However, these little challenges only strengthen our determination to end this adventure on a high note.

It’s finally time to reach our final destination. Figueres and its Dali museum are just one stopover for us, marking both our departure and arrival. It is with a mixture of satisfaction and nostalgia that we bring this adventure to a close, taking with us unforgettable memories and the feeling of having experienced something truly special.”

“As a conclusion to our adventure on the “Girona and Catalonia, gravel paradise” tour, I can’t recommend this experience highly enough to all gravel enthusiasts. It’s truly an exceptional itinerary, skilfully combining technical challenges with the pleasures of discovery. An ideal trip to take in the spring between March and June, and in late summer through to October.

What makes this tour so remarkable is its richness and diversity. Each day is a new adventure, offering its share of bucolic landscapes, picturesque villages and challenges. Riding pleasure is constant, with roads perfectly suited to gravel riding, neither too difficult to discourage the less experienced, nor too easy for the more seasoned riders to enjoy.

Catalonia itself is a magnificent region, which reveals itself at its most beautiful through the kilometers it covers by bike. Its varied landscapes, between mountains, valleys and coastline, offer a breathtaking spectacle at every turn. And what a satisfaction it is to discover this region by gravel, taking the time to fully immerse yourself in every landscape, every atmosphere, every moment of this unforgettable journey.”