6 days cycling in the heart of Dordogne

by Mélissa, Abicyclette Voyages

There are places in France whose existence is all too well unknown, and the Périgord is definitely one of them. I’d only vaguely heard of the Dordogne, the contemporary name for Périgord, before we set off on our two wheels for a week. Located in south-west France, the Dordogne, which takes its name from the eponymous river, is undeniably a region with many assets: varied, sublime landscapes that you never tire of exploring by bike, a remarkable historical heritage and an equally remarkable gastronomy.

6 days of Périgord. 6 days of cycling to get the best shots! For this trip, we were accompanied by Lucie, our communications manager and photographer extraordinaire. Her objective? To fill the film to dazzle your eyes on the Abicyclette Voyages website, and to punctuate the story of our Périgourdine adventure.

Dordogne, a long, quiet river

Nestled between sheer cliffs, lush forests and verdant hills, the Dordogne River sweeps through six French departments and no less than 480 kilometers of south-western France. The Véloroute on the Dordogne valley offers safe, well-maintained itineraries along this majestic waterway, allowing you to take full advantage of the magnificent surrounding countryside. There’s plenty to enjoy! Bicycle rides, picnics and contemplative moments from the lookouts – the quiet force of this river borders on the tranquil. And what can we say about the aquatic buttercups that are everywhere on the surface! The Dordogne is unquestionably a river of breathtaking natural beauty. And for those who love outdoor activities, this is the place to be! Swimming, canoeing, rafting – there’s something for everyone. There’s something to refresh and stretch your legs, which is no luxury when you’re toiling through the valleys of this little corner of paradise.

The Périgord has it all

Black, white, green or purple. For each of these colors, the Périgord encloses a part of the Dordogne and takes on unique characteristics. And it’s in the Périgord Noir that we’re taking up residence for the week, in the south-east of the Dordogne. Black not like truffles, not like our inner tubes, but like oak! The dark green oak, the emblem if ever there was one of the Dordogne’s forests, borders the beautiful winding asphalt roads, much to the delight of cyclists. No risk of boredom here! The diversity of the forests unfolds before your eyes, as do the kilometers on your bike computer. Cycling at speed never dulls the senses – quite the contrary! Scents of bark, moss, mushrooms, violets and mint… Fragrances of childhood. In the depths of the forest, birds call out to us as we pass. The light changes. So does the heat. As the forest becomes denser, it eclipses the sun, relieving us of a few degrees. The experience is ultra-sensory. To explore the Périgord Noir is first and foremost to reconnect with nature. And it’s not just trees and wildlife that abound in the Périgord Noir. We also come across famous prehistoric sites such as Lascaux and sumptuous medieval villages. These sublime towns are filled with narrow streets, castles and houses built of golden stone. It’s impossible not to set foot on this territory, home to no fewer than 9 villages ranked among the most beautiful in France.

In the heart of the Vézère valley, we first come across the charming village of Les Eyzies, nicknamed the “capital of prehistory”, which boasts – in addition to its prehistoric museums – a very distinctive architecture with caves, rock shelters and houses built into the cliffs (troglodytes). The panorama of the Vézère River is simply breathtaking!

We ride up the Vézère river to La Roque Saint-Christophe, one of the largest and most impressive troglodyte sites in the region. A genuine natural balcony formed by a limestone cliff for almost a kilometer, this site offers an absolutely spectacular view of the surrounding valley.

La Roque Saint-Christophe is a place steeped in history, where you can revel in the splendor and ingenuity of the men and women who have lived here.

After a few laps around the wheel and a few well-intentioned shots, we headed north to discover the sublime Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, a village that rightly ranks among the 160 most beautiful in France. We enjoy pedaling through the narrow streets, past typical stone houses with their unmistakable garnet-red shutters.

Everywhere, the locals brighten up the facades with pretty rosebushes, adding to the delightful character of the place. With a slight foray into the purple Périgord, we end the day’s photo shooting by bike in Limeuil, another village listed as one of France’s most beautiful.

Nestling at the confluence of the Dordogne and Vézère rivers, this small medieval town is enchanting with its flower-decorated facades and ancient arcades, bearing witness to the village’s historic past. From the top of the hill, we can enjoy a breathtaking view of the two rivers that surround the village.

Satiated with sunshine and scenery, we put the bikes down and enjoy our first Périgourdine evening. Around our gîte (holiday cottage), calm reigns and twilight gently invites itself in.

For our second day in the Périgord Noir, we join our dear friends, Paulette and Jean, for a few pedal strokes in unison. Leaving Gourdon in the early hours of the morning, the sun is already shining on the horizon, but we’re still waiting for the degrees to rise. So we keep our sleeves on. And the smiles! Our goal: Sarlat-la-Canéda (or Sarlat for close friends).

The words line up. Far more than the kilometers on the bike computer. It’s been a long time since our last interview! Lucie, our favorite paparazzi, blends into the background to capture images on the fly. Without batting an eyelid, our star couple play along. Soon, we’re crossing the majestic Dordogne. And it’s already time to fuel up!

For our lunch break, we decided to make a little detour to Montfort, where the charming brasserie Le Centenaire awaits us at the foot of the castle. It’s an opportunity to discover the local gastronomy, which lacks neither resources nor generosity. Fabien sets his sights on Anchaud, a typical and ancient dish of Périgourdine cuisine. It’s a boneless pork loin, spiked with garlic and rubbed with salt and pepper. And it’s fair to say that this loin, cooked in duck fat, is not lacking in tenderness! Fabien is delighted, and so are we! Jean and I order a tasty and colorful salad, while Lucie and Paulette summon Normandy with a honey-roasted Camembert.

After this beautiful interlude, we get back on our bikes for the remaining 15 kilometers. We enjoy the peaceful, shady roads and the last rays of sunshine before the storm. We arrive in Sarlat under a few drops. Nothing to stop us from enjoying an aperitif on the terrace of the famous Place de la Liberté!

Back to the gîte by bike. A few walls to climb to earn your shower! Getting ready for the evening. We take off our helmets and cycling shorts, because it’s time for the big night. A table at La Couleuvrine awaits us, ready to satisfy all our desires. It’s here, under the stonework, that glasses and forks clash. The place is ravishing, and the chef knows how to delight the eyes as well as the taste buds (even the vegan ones). We appreciate that each dish is given its rightful place on the menu. A beautiful address, with beautiful people, yet more to fill the box of beautiful memories.

Retour au gîte à vélo. Quelques murs à gravir, histoire de mériter sa douche ! On s’apprête pour la soirée. On quitte les casques et les cuissards car l’heure est au grand soir. Une table à la Couleuvrine nous attend et s’apprête à exaucer toutes nos envies. C’est là, sous la pierre, que s’entrechoquent les coupes et les fourchettes. L’endroit est ravissant et la cheffe sait ravir les yeux autant que les papilles (même celles végétaliennes). On apprécie que chaque plat soit érigé au rang qu’il mérite sur la carte. Une belle adresse, avec de belles personnes, encore de quoi remplir la boîte à jolis souvenirs.

The next morning, the appointment is made. Off to the Sarlat market! One of the town’s major attractions, this twice-weekly event is a melting pot of local culture and traditions. Traders spread out along the pedestrian streets and under the Sainte-Marie church, which opens its two majestic doors to the public for the occasion.

The warm-up this morning is not muscular but sensory. A wide variety of fresh, local produce colors the stalls and tickles the nostrils. Fruits, vegetables, cheese, duck confit, foie gras, truffles (summer truffles, we arrived too late to taste the winter ones), tourtière, walnut pie… We don’t know which way to turn!

We set off again with our panniers full and our appetites whetted. The day promises to be as beautiful as it is long.

Destination Domme. Domme the dominant. Domme, which doesn’t come without a bit of sweat and a bit of rubber. We’re going to have to grind our way to the top, because it’s at the highest point of the cliff that pretty Domme is located.

Lucie captures our first meters in this medieval jewel. Dancing on our pedals, we enter through the historic gateway. Our efforts are quickly rewarded by the marvellous panorama of the Dordogne valley. Between two waves of tourists, we take a break on the Belvedere. While this breathtaking view is the number-one attraction of this listed village (yet another one!), the fact remains that this medieval town holds many other promises.

Its winding streets, stone houses with picturesque facades, local craft stores, welcoming cafés and restaurants are also part of its charm. But we’re not staying for lunch. This lunchtime, it’s an (almost) improvised picnic! We find a little spot under the trees and unpack our panniers full of our morning shopping. A real treat!

We head back west to Castelnaud-La-Chapelle. Nicknamed the “sentinel of the Dordogne” because it overlooks the confluence of the Dordogne and Céou rivers, this village enjoys a certain reputation thanks to the two castles it shelters.

We cycle past the Château des Milandes, the former home of the illustrious Josephine Baker, and on to the Château de Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, which has been restored and transformed into a museum of warfare in the Middle Ages. No time for a visit today, Lucie has us in her sights! So, under our photographer’s sharp eye, we wind our way through the winding streets and under the little arches scattered throughout the village, which is also listed (yes, another one!).

After a few photos against the backdrop of Beynac castle, we end our third day at La Roque Gageac. The sublime Roque Gageac! Wedged between the cliff and the river, the golden light is reflected on the beige stone houses with their brown roofs.

The limestone backdrop offers a landscape like no other. All around us, the tourists are ecstatic: “I’ve never seen a place like this before!” And I couldn’t agree more! La Roque Gageac may be one of France’s most beautiful villages, but it’s undeniably at the top of my personal Perigord podium.

We immortalize the moment with a few pedal strokes on the main street, then treat ourselves to a well-deserved drink on the terrace.

Day 4. Fabien dropped Lucie off at the station in the early hours of the morning, and Paulette and Jean hit the road again. So Fabien and I decide to treat ourselves to a nice loop on our bikes. A hundred kilometers or so to feast our eyes, once again, on the sublime landscapes along the Dordogne and Vézère rivers. Leaving a little late, we made sure to surprise Paulette and Jean and met them at Le Soupçon, in Belvès, where they had arrived an hour earlier. In this convivial English-style tearoom, we fill up on laughter and sunshine. And before daylight completely fades, we’re back on the road to the gîte. After 109 kilometers and no less than 1700 meters of ascent, dinner and the night arrive just in time.

On our last day in the Périgord Noir, we return to beloved Sarlat. We stroll through its lovely streets, and as fate would have it, we come across Coin Coin, an elaborate tapas restaurant. The terrace is cosy and the food is smart, refined and absolutely delicious. Another great address to include in our guide. And what would a day be without a bicycle tour? At the end of the afternoon, we saddle up and ride the asphalt for some thirty kilometers. We take photos, of course, but we never look as elegant as we do in Lucie’s camera.

Saturday morning is already here, and we end our stay in the purple Périgord, south of the Dordogne. Purple like the grapes, of course! Honor to its capital, Bergerac, where we are warmly welcomed by Jean-Paul and Sophie, both passionate about their region. Jean-Paul takes us to the old quarter of Bergerac, with its cobbled streets and half-timbered houses, where we buy our groceries at the market. Or rather, we try to buy them. Jean-Paul is as famous as Cyrano in Bergerac!

Lunch in the Bergerac market hall, on the terrace, to taste the local speciality: grape nectar ! Red, white or rosé, there’s something for everyone here. Time flies with this big talker. The afternoon is already knocking at our door. And while Jean-Paul is off delivering bikes, Fabien and I are off on a little bike tour. It’s impossible not to make a detour to Monbazillac, where the château sits enthroned and the vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see. This time, we opt for reason and opt for white grapes that have become almost honey. A final pleasant evening with our hosts.

Sunday. The end. This morning we play cab and drop Paulette and Jean off in Bordeaux. We’re all excited because we’ll be seeing each other again soon. Kenavo! Back to our beautiful Brittany.

We’ll probably be back to taste Périgord. Perhaps the white, the limestone heart of the Dordogne. Perhaps the green, the lungs of this department. One thing’s for sure: we loved it, and we’ll be glad to come back and pedal in our old age.